The Square Diamond with Brilliant Sparkle
The princess cut is the second most popular diamond shape after the round brilliant. Its square (or slightly rectangular) outline combined with brilliant-cut faceting delivers sharp geometric beauty with excellent sparkle. Here is everything you need to know about the princess cut.
What Makes It Special
- Shape: Square when viewed from above, with pointed corners and a pyramid-like profile from the side. The sharp corners give it a modern, architectural character
- Faceting: Modified brilliant faceting with chevron-shaped facets on the pavilion (bottom). This brilliant-style faceting produces sparkle similar to a round brilliant in a square shape
- Origin: Developed in the 1960s-1980s, the princess cut is one of the newer fancy shapes. It quickly became the most popular non-round shape
Buying Considerations
- Cut quality: There is no standardized cut grade for princess cuts (unlike round brilliants). Look for excellent symmetry, polish, and proportions
- Length-to-width ratio: 1.00-1.05 for a perfectly square appearance. 1.05-1.15 for a slightly rectangular look. Personal preference determines which is best
- Depth: Ideal depth percentage is 65-75%. Too deep and the diamond faces up smaller than its weight suggests
- Color: Princess cuts can show color slightly more than rounds. G-H is recommended for white gold settings
- Clarity: Inclusions near the corners are a concern — they can create weak points. VS2 or better is recommended
The Corner Question
- Vulnerability: The pointed corners of a princess cut are the most vulnerable part of any diamond shape. Corners can chip if struck directly
- Protection: V-prong corner settings protect the corners by covering them with metal. This is essential — never buy a princess cut in a setting that leaves corners exposed
- Daily wear: With proper V-prong settings, princess cuts are perfectly suitable for daily wear. The setting does the protecting
Princess Cut vs Round Brilliant
- Sparkle: Round brilliant produces approximately 10-15% more light return. Princess cut is the second most sparkly shape
- Size appearance: A princess cut faces up about 5-10% smaller than a round of the same carat weight because more weight is carried in the depth
- Price: Princess cuts are typically 15-25% less expensive than rounds of the same quality because less rough diamond is wasted during cutting
- Aesthetic: Round is classic and traditional. Princess is modern and geometric. The choice is purely personal