The Square Diamond with Round Diamond Sparkle
The princess cut is the most popular fancy-shape diamond — and for good reason. Its square outline with brilliant-cut faceting creates a modern, geometric look while delivering sparkle levels that rival the round brilliant. If you love clean lines and contemporary design, the princess cut is your diamond.
What Is a Princess Cut
- Shape: Square or near-square from the top view, with a pointed bottom (like an inverted pyramid). The sharp, geometric corners give the princess cut its modern character
- Facets: Typically 57-76 facets arranged in a brilliant-cut pattern. This means light performance (sparkle) is optimized similarly to a round brilliant, but in a square shape
- Origin: Developed in the 1960s-80s, making it a relatively modern diamond shape. Its popularity surged in the 1990s and remains strong today
Advantages
- Modern aesthetic: The square shape with sharp corners creates a clean, contemporary look that appeals to those who find round diamonds too traditional
- Excellent sparkle: The brilliant-cut facet arrangement produces sparkle comparable to round diamonds. Princess cuts are among the sparkliest fancy shapes
- Price efficiency: Princess cuts retain more of the rough diamond crystal during cutting than round brilliants (less waste). This means slightly lower per-carat prices — you get more diamond for your budget
- Face-up size: A well-cut princess cut can appear larger face-up than a round brilliant of the same carat weight because of its diagonal measurement
What to Look For
- Length-to-width ratio: 1.00-1.05 for a perfect square. Some buyers prefer a slightly rectangular princess (1.05-1.10). Avoid ratios above 1.10 unless you specifically want a rectangle
- Symmetry: The four corners should be equally sharp and the facet pattern should be symmetrical. Asymmetric princess cuts look unbalanced
- Cut quality: Look for Excellent or Very Good cut grades. Unlike round brilliants, princess cut proportions are less standardized, so cut quality varies more between stones
- Color: G-H is ideal. Princess cuts can show slightly more body color than round brilliants due to the way light travels through the deeper pavilion
- Clarity: VS2 or better. Princess cuts have large, open facets that can make inclusions more visible than in crushed-ice fancy shapes
The Corner Protection Issue
- Princess cut diamonds have sharp, pointed corners that are vulnerable to chipping if struck at the wrong angle
- Solution: Always choose a setting that protects the corners. V-prongs (prongs that cup each corner) are the standard for princess cuts. Bezel settings provide maximum corner protection
- NEVER set a princess cut with prongs only on the sides — the exposed corners will eventually chip
Settings That Work Best
- V-prong solitaire: The classic princess cut setting. Four V-prongs protect each corner while maximizing diamond visibility
- Bezel: Maximum protection for all four corners. Modern, sleek, and extremely secure
- Halo: Small diamonds surrounding the princess cut add sparkle and provide a visual frame. Channel-set halos complement the geometric shape beautifully