The Square That Sparkles Like a Round
The princess cut is the most popular square diamond shape and the second most popular shape overall after the round brilliant. Created in the 1960s, it combines the brilliance of a round diamond with a contemporary square silhouette. If you love geometric shapes and maximum sparkle, the princess cut delivers both.
What Makes Princess Cut Special
- Brilliant sparkle: The princess cut uses a modified brilliant faceting pattern that produces sparkle comparable to the round brilliant — remarkable for a square shape
- Modern aesthetic: The clean, geometric lines create a contemporary look that appeals to those who find round diamonds too traditional
- Excellent value: Princess cuts retain more of the rough diamond during cutting than round brilliants, resulting in lower per-carat pricing. Approximately 20-30% less expensive than equivalent round diamonds
- Face-up appearance: The diagonal measurement of a princess cut is larger than the diameter of a round diamond at the same weight, creating the impression of a larger stone
Choosing a Princess Cut
- Length-to-width ratio: 1.00-1.05 for a perfect square. Slightly rectangular (1.05-1.10) can also look beautiful. Avoid ratios above 1.10 unless you intentionally want a rectangular shape
- Color: Princess cuts can show color slightly more in the corners. G-H is the sweet spot for white appearance without premium pricing
- Clarity: VS2-SI1 is the value sweet spot. The brilliant facets hide inclusions well unless they are in the corners
- Cut: Prioritize symmetry and balanced proportions. Look for depth 64-75% and table 67-72%
Setting Considerations
- Corner protection is critical: The pointed corners of a princess cut are vulnerable to chipping. V-prongs or bezel settings that cover the corners are strongly recommended
- Prong settings: Four-prong with V-prongs on the corners is the classic and safest option
- Channel settings: Princess cuts are ideal for channel-set bands — the square shape fits perfectly edge-to-edge with no gaps
- Bezel settings: Full bezel protects all corners and creates a modern, streamlined look
Princess vs Round
- Princess is more affordable at the same carat weight (20-30% savings)
- Princess has a more modern, geometric aesthetic
- Round has slightly more sparkle due to optimized facet geometry
- Princess requires corner protection that round does not
- Both shapes produce excellent brilliance — the choice is aesthetic preference