The Diamond Shape of Royalty
Legend has it that King Louis XV of France commissioned a diamond cut to resemble the smile of the Marquise de Pompadour. Whether the legend is true or not, the marquise cut remains one of the most distinctive and regal diamond shapes — an elongated oval with pointed ends that creates dramatic finger presence unlike any other shape.
What Makes Marquise Special
- Maximum finger coverage: The marquise cut has the largest face-up surface area of any diamond shape relative to its carat weight. A 1.00 carat marquise appears significantly larger than a 1.00 carat round
- Dramatic elongation: The long, narrow shape creates the most finger-lengthening effect of any diamond. Makes every finger appear longer and more slender
- Brilliant sparkle: Modified brilliant faceting delivers excellent light return. The elongated shape creates unique sparkle patterns
- Distinctive presence: In a world of rounds and ovals, a marquise stands out immediately. It is a choice that signals confidence and individuality
Choosing a Marquise
- Length-to-width ratio: 1.75-2.25 is the classic range. 2.00 is considered the ideal proportion by most experts. Lower ratios appear stubbier, higher ratios appear needlelike
- Symmetry is essential: Both halves must be mirror images. Both points must be equally sharp and aligned. Asymmetric marquise diamonds look imbalanced and amateurish
- Bowtie effect: Like ovals, marquise diamonds can show a dark bowtie across the center. Well-cut stones minimize this to a faint shadow. Avoid stones with obvious, dark bowties
- Color: Color can concentrate at the pointed ends. G-H recommended for a clean white appearance
- Clarity: VS2-SI1 works well. The brilliant facets hide most inclusions effectively
Setting Considerations
- Point protection is critical: Both pointed ends must be protected with V-prongs or bezel tips. The points are the most vulnerable parts of a marquise diamond
- North-south (traditional): Points aligned with the finger for maximum elongation. The classic orientation
- East-west: Points across the finger. A modern, unconventional choice that is gaining popularity. Creates a wider, more dramatic look
- Solitaire: The classic pairing. Lets the dramatic shape command attention
- Halo: A halo of round diamonds following the marquise outline. Creates a larger, more ornate appearance