The Shape That Looks Largest for Its Weight
The marquise cut — also called the navette (French for little ship) — is an elongated diamond shape with pointed ends on both sides. Of all diamond shapes, the marquise produces the largest face-up appearance per carat weight. If you want your diamond to look as large as possible, the marquise deserves your attention.
What Is a Marquise Cut
- Shape: An elongated oval with pointed ends on both long ends, resembling a football or an eye shape. The pointed ends give it a dramatic, regal character
- Origin: Created for King Louis XV of France in the 18th century, designed to resemble the smile of the Marquise de Pompadour. The shape has literal royal heritage
- Facets: Typically 56-58 brilliant-cut facets, producing excellent sparkle comparable to a round brilliant
The Unique Advantages
- Maximum face-up size: The marquise has the largest surface area of any diamond shape per carat weight. A 1.00 ct marquise looks significantly larger face-up than a 1.00 ct round — often appearing 15-20% bigger
- Finger lengthening: The elongated shape creates maximum finger-lengthening effect. The points extend beyond the width of the finger, creating a dramatically longer visual line
- Regal presence: The marquise has an inherent drama and elegance that simpler shapes lack. It commands attention without being flashy
- Value: Marquise cuts are typically 15-30% less expensive per carat than round brilliants, AND they look larger. The combination of lower price and larger appearance makes the marquise exceptional value
What to Look For
- Length-to-width ratio: 1.75-2.25 is the ideal range. 2.00 is considered the classic marquise proportion. Below 1.70 looks too chubby. Above 2.30 looks too skinny and fragile
- Symmetry: Absolutely critical. Both pointed ends must be perfect mirror images. The two curved sides must be symmetrical. Any asymmetry is immediately visible and distracting
- Bow-tie: Like ovals and pear shapes, marquise diamonds can show a dark bow-tie shadow across the center. Minimal bow-tie is acceptable; prominent bow-tie should be avoided
- The points: Both pointed ends must come to clean, sharp points. V-prongs MUST protect both points — exposed marquise points will eventually chip
- Color: The points can concentrate body color. G-H is recommended
- Clarity: VS2 is typically eye-clean due to the brilliant faceting
Settings
- East-West: Setting the marquise horizontally (points going left-right instead of up-down) is a modern, distinctive choice that creates a wide, statement-making look
- Traditional (North-South): Points going up-down along the finger for maximum elongation
- V-prong solitaire: Essential for protecting the vulnerable points. The most classic marquise setting