Colored gemstones predate the diamond engagement ring by centuries. Rubies adorned the crowns of kings. Emeralds were Cleopatra's obsession. Sapphires have symbolized wisdom, royalty, and divine favor across every major civilization. Today, as diamond prices stabilize and tastes diversify, colored gemstones are experiencing a renaissance — driven by buyers who want something that says more than "standard."
This guide covers the major gemstone families, what to look for in each, and how to make purchases you'll never second-guess.
The Big Three: Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire
Ruby — The King of Gems
A fine ruby is rarer than a fine diamond. The most valued color is "pigeon blood" — a vivid, slightly purplish red with exceptional saturation. Rubies from Myanmar (Burma) command the highest prices, though Mozambican rubies have emerged as a remarkable value alternative with outstanding color.
What to look for:
- Color first, always. Vivid, saturated red with minimal brown or pink overtones. Medium to medium-dark tone.
- Clarity is secondary. Unlike diamonds, rubies are expected to have inclusions. "Eye-clean" is the standard — visible inclusions at arm's length are a concern, microscopic ones are not.
- Treatment disclosure. Most rubies are heat-treated to improve color and clarity. This is standard and accepted. Untreated rubies command significant premiums.
Emerald — Cleopatra's Stone
Emeralds are defined by their color — a pure green to slightly bluish green with vivid saturation. Colombian emeralds are the benchmark, prized for their warm, slightly yellowish green. Zambian emeralds tend toward cooler, bluish greens and are increasingly valued.
What to look for:
- Color is everything. The most important factor by far. Vivid green with good saturation.
- Inclusions are expected. Emeralds almost always contain inclusions, called "jardin" (French for garden). A flawless emerald is either synthetic or astronomically expensive. Embrace minor inclusions as nature's signature.
- Oil and resin treatments are standard. Ask for disclosure. Minor oiling is universally accepted; heavy filling is a red flag.
- Handle with care. Emeralds rate 7.5-8 on the Mohs scale, but their inclusions make them more susceptible to chipping than their hardness suggests.
Sapphire — The Stone of Wisdom
While "sapphire" conjures blue, sapphires exist in every color except red (which would make them rubies — both are corundum). Blue remains the most valued, particularly the velvety "cornflower blue" from Kashmir and the deep royal blues from Sri Lanka and Myanmar.
What to look for:
- Vivid, medium to medium-dark blue. Not so dark that it appears black, not so light that it looks washed out.
- Excellent clarity is achievable. Fine sapphires are cleaner than rubies and emeralds. Eye-clean stones are common and expected.
- Sapphires are incredibly durable (9 on Mohs scale). Only diamonds are harder. This makes sapphires excellent for rings worn daily.
Rising Stars: Tanzanite, Paraíba Tourmaline, Alexandrite
Tanzanite
Found in only one place on earth — a five-square-mile area near Mount Kilimanjaro. Tanzanite's blue-violet color is unlike any other gemstone. Geologists estimate the deposit will be exhausted within a generation, making it both beautiful and increasingly scarce.
Paraíba Tourmaline
The "neon" gemstone. Its electric blue-green glow, caused by trace copper, is unmistakable and photographs like nothing else. Originally from Paraíba, Brazil, similar stones now come from Mozambique and Nigeria. Prices have increased 500% in a decade.
Alexandrite
The "emerald by day, ruby by night." Alexandrite changes color dramatically under different light sources — green in daylight, red-purple under incandescent light. Fine alexandrite with strong color change is among the rarest gemstones in the world.
The Four Factors of Gemstone Quality
While diamonds use the standardized 4Cs, colored gemstones are evaluated with similar but more nuanced criteria:
- Color — The primary value driver. Evaluated by hue (the actual color), saturation (intensity), and tone (lightness/darkness). Vivid saturation with medium tone is ideal for most gems.
- Clarity — Expected clarity varies dramatically by gem type. Aquamarines should be eye-clean. Emeralds are forgiven for inclusions. Know what's normal for each stone.
- Cut — Skilled cutting maximizes color, minimizes visible inclusions, and delivers life to the stone. Unlike diamond cut, gemstone cuts aren't standardized — evaluate each stone individually.
- Carat Weight — Larger colored gemstones are exponentially rarer and more valuable. A 5-carat fine ruby is proportionally far more expensive than a 1-carat equivalent.
Certification and Trust
Always insist on independent certification from a recognized laboratory. For colored gemstones, the most respected labs include:
- GIA (Gemological Institute of America)
- IGI (International Gemological Institute)
- Gübelin (Switzerland — considered the gold standard for colored gems)
- SSEF (Swiss Gemmological Institute)
A certificate should document the gemstone species, variety, weight, measurements, color, and any treatments detected. At Bijolina, every piece above $500 comes with independent certification you can verify.
Investment Potential
Fine colored gemstones have historically appreciated more consistently than diamonds. Top-quality rubies, emeralds, and sapphires from premier origins have seen double-digit annual appreciation over the past two decades. Paraíba tourmalines and fine alexandrites have appreciated even faster.
But gemstones are luxury goods first, investments second. Buy what moves you. If it also appreciates, consider that a bonus.
