The Diamond Shape That Defined an Era
The Asscher cut was created in 1902 by Joseph Asscher of the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam. It is a square step-cut diamond with deeply trimmed corners that give it an almost octagonal appearance. The Asscher cut is the diamond shape most closely associated with the Art Deco era — geometric, architectural, and timelessly elegant.
What Makes Asscher Cut Unique
- Square step cut: Like an emerald cut but square. The step-cut facets create the same hall-of-mirrors optical effect — dramatic, broad flashes of light and dark
- Deeply trimmed corners: The corners are more dramatically cut than emerald cuts, giving the Asscher its distinctive near-octagonal outline
- Windmill pattern: Looking into an Asscher cut from above, the concentric square step facets create a distinctive windmill or X pattern. This optical effect is the Asscher's signature
- Art Deco DNA: The geometric precision of the Asscher cut is pure Art Deco. It resonates with those who love the aesthetic of the 1920s and 1930s
Choosing an Asscher Cut
- Length-to-width ratio: 1.00-1.05 for a true square. Asscher cuts should be square — any significant rectangular deviation is better served by choosing an emerald cut instead
- Clarity is critical: Like emerald cuts, the large open facets make inclusions highly visible. VS2 minimum is recommended, with VS1 or VVS2 preferred for maximum transparency
- Color shows: Step-cut facets display color more readily than brilliant cuts. G-H recommended for a clean white appearance in white gold or platinum
- Depth: Asscher cuts tend to carry more weight in depth than other shapes. This means a 1.00 carat Asscher appears smaller face-up than a 1.00 carat round. Consider going up in carat weight to achieve desired visual size
Setting Recommendations
- Art Deco settings: The most natural pairing. Geometric metalwork, milgrain edges, and baguette side stones complement the Asscher's vintage character
- Solitaire: Clean and powerful. Lets the Asscher's optical effect take center stage
- Halo: A halo of round diamonds adds sparkle that the step-cut center does not provide on its own
- Three-stone: Flanked by trapezoid or square side stones for a full Art Deco composition
The Asscher Buyer
Those who choose Asscher cuts tend to appreciate history, architecture, and geometric precision. It is the diamond shape for people who would rather visit a museum than a nightclub — thoughtful, refined, and drawn to timeless design over trends.