The Square Step Cut with Vintage Soul
The Asscher cut is a square step-cut diamond with dramatically cropped corners, creating a distinctive octagonal outline. Developed in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Holland, it captures the architectural elegance of the Art Deco era. If you love vintage aesthetics, geometric design, and understated glamour, the Asscher cut is your diamond.
What Is an Asscher Cut
- Shape: Square with deeply cropped corners — more octagonal than square when viewed from above. The corners are more dramatically cut than those on an emerald cut, giving the Asscher its distinctive look
- Facets: Step-cut facets arranged in concentric squares that descend from the table to the culet, creating the hallmark concentric square pattern visible from above — like looking down into an infinite tunnel of light
- Light behavior: Like the emerald cut, the Asscher produces broad, dramatic flashes of light rather than tiny pinpoint sparkle. But the square shape creates a more concentrated, more intense version of the hall-of-mirrors effect
Asscher vs Emerald Cut
- Shape: Asscher is square; emerald is rectangular. This is the fundamental difference
- Corners: Asscher corners are more deeply cropped, creating a more pronounced octagonal outline
- Light pattern: The Asscher's square shape creates a more symmetrical, more concentrated light pattern. The concentric square effect is more visible
- Overall feel: Asscher = Art Deco, vintage, architectural, geometric. Emerald = elongated elegance, Hollywood glamour, understated sophistication
What to Look For
- Length-to-width ratio: 1.00-1.05 for a perfect square. Asscher cuts should be square — elongated Asschers lose the distinctive concentric square effect
- Clarity: VS1 or better. Like all step cuts, the large, open facets make inclusions more visible. VS1 ensures eye-clean beauty with the open window of step-cut facets
- Color: G-H. Step cuts can show body color slightly more than brilliant cuts. G-H provides a safely colorless appearance
- Depth: 61-68%. Asscher cuts tend to be deeper than round brilliants, which means they carry more weight in depth. This is normal for the shape
- Windowing: Poorly cut Asschers can show a window effect — you can see through the diamond. Look for strong light return across the entire face
The Art Deco Connection
- The Asscher cut was invented in 1902 and reached peak popularity during the Art Deco period (1920s-1930s)
- Art Deco design emphasized geometric shapes, clean lines, and architectural symmetry — exactly what the Asscher cut embodies
- Choosing an Asscher cut is choosing a diamond with design heritage. It connects you to a specific era of elegance and craftsmanship
Settings
- Solitaire: The Asscher's geometric beauty is best showcased in a clean solitaire with minimal metal distraction
- Art Deco inspired: Settings with milgrain detail, geometric patterns, and vintage-inspired metalwork complement the Asscher's era
- Bezel: A square bezel around a square Asscher creates a beautiful frame-within-frame effect